Why you should do a climbing comp
It’s competition time! We’re well into the swing of the world cup season, and although we’re not planning on heading out with the GB team any time soon, there are some more local competitions that we’re excited about going along to.
OLYMPIC GAMES PARIS 2024
A proposal to include surfing, skateboarding, breaking, and Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games Paris 2024 was unanimously approved at the 134th International Olympic Committee (IOC) Session on 25 June 2019.
The IOC Executive Board officially confirmed Sport Climbing’s inclusion in the programme of the 2024 Olympic Games on 7 December 2020.
The decision marks a high watermark in the history of the IFSC, following on from the sport’s inclusion at the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 and coming just eight months before its highly anticipated debut at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020.
With a Speed event and combined Lead & Boulder event in Paris, the total number of medal events for Sport Climbing will double from two at the Tokyo Games, to four in Paris. The 2024 Games will also see a significant increase in the number of Sport Climbing athletes participating in comparison to the Tokyo Games, from 40 athletes in Tokyo, to 68 in Paris.
The Games of the XXXIII Olympiad are scheduled to take place in the French capital from July 26 to August 11 2024.
IFSC PRESENTS THE 2022 CALENDAR
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is proud to unveil the calendar of the upcoming 2022 season, opening with the XVIII IFSC General Assembly in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA.
2022 IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES
Consisting of 13 stages in total and distributed over 10 countries and three continents, the 2022 IFSC World Cup Series will take place between April and September.
The opening World Cup competition of the season will take place in Moscow, Russia, while Salt Lake City is also expected to host another doubleheader, replicating the successful formula that debuted in May 2021.
Hosting the only IFSC World Cup in both Boulder and Lead, Innsbruck, Austria, marks the midpoint of the season. July will see the return of three long-standing landmarks on the calendar, with world cups in Villars, Switzerland; Chamonix, France; and Briançon, France.
The full schedule of the 2022 IFSC World Cup Series is as follows:
- 1-3 April – Moscow (RUS) – Boulder, Speed
- 8-10 April – Meiringen (SUI) – Boulder
- 29 April-1 May – TBD location in Japan – Boulder
- 6-8 May – Seoul (KOR) – Boulder, Speed
- 20-22 May – Salt Lake City (USA) – Boulder
- 27-29 May – Salt Lake City (USA) – Boulder, Speed
- 22-25 June – Innsbruck (AUT) – Boulder, Lead
- 1-3 July – Villars (SUI) – Lead, Speed
- 8-10 July – Chamonix (FRA) – Lead, Speed
- 22-23 July – Briançon (FRA) – Lead
- 2-3 September – TBD location in Slovenia – Lead
- 22-24 September – Bali (INA) – Lead, Speed
- 28-30 September – TBD location in China – Lead, Speed
Following the outstanding Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020, Sport Climbing will feature at three different multi-sport events in 2022: the World Games Birmingham 2022, where all three disciplines will be contested; the European Championships Munich 2022, with Boulder, Lead, and Speed being joined by the Olympic Games Paris 2024 format of Boulder & Lead; and the 19th edition of the Asian Games, set to take place in Hangzhou, China.
YOUTH AND PARACLIMBING
The yearly IFSC Youth World Championships will be organised in the United States of America, in a city still to be defined, between 22 and 31 August. Paraclimbing’s 2022 competition calendar will be presented later in 2021.
IFSC President Marco Scolaris commented:
“The year 2021 has been a non-stop challenge, for us and for the whole world. However, we made our debut at the most unique edition of the Olympic Games, and, eventually, we succeeded organizing a number of great IFSC competitions. The calendar of the 2022 season is not just a mere list of dates, locations, and competitions. It is a symbol of hope, and we are very much looking forward to bringing the Sport Climbing world united again, with no exceptions.”
When could gyms reopen?
The Government has not yet published its lockdown exit strategy. Boris Johnsonhas said he will set out the strategy for the “gradual and phased” easing of lockdown in the week beginning 22 February.
In an address to MPs on Wednesday 27 January, the Prime Minister indicated that lockdown measures will remain in place until at least Monday 8 March.
This means it is safe to assume that gyms will not reopen until at least 8 March, but likely later.
The date is based on progress in vaccinating the most vulnerable groups in society by mid-February and then giving the jab time to take effect.
How did gyms work under the tier system?
The Government has indicated that England will re-enter a tiered system of restrictions when nationwide measures ease.
Speaking about easing out of lockdown, Dominic Raab told the BBC: “I think it is fair to say it won’t be a big bang, if you like, it will be done phased, possibly back through the tiered approach that we had before.”
Gyms were allowed to stay open in all tiers under the three-tier system that was in place in December.
However, they were closed in tier four areas when the additional level was brought in later in the month.
When gyms reopen they will once again have to follow strict rules, such as reduced class sizes and one-way systems.
Last week we published an article The Climbing Bug – Indoor Walls and Coronavirus which had advice and information about how to deal with the current coronavirus pandemic. The thread accompanying the piece had a lengthy contribution from Levi Yant, who raised some serious concerns about it in the context of this fast-moving situation.
We contacted a few climbing wall owners to see what their thoughts were. They described measures they were taking to reduce the dangers and also other more drastic steps they might make, such as limiting user numbers, but all also agreed that the situation may soon be taken out of their control. We also contacted Dave Turnbull of the BMC and he said they were leaving it to the individual walls to decide for themselves. The Climbing Academy announced today that all of their centres will close from tomorrow (17 March).
Today – Monday (16 March) – the press conference by the prime minister has advised people to avoid public gathering places like pubs, restaurants, and cafes. No specific mention of leisure facilities was made. Numerous climbing walls across the globe – and some crags in Spain – have closed over the past week, either due to government orders or out of a personal desire to contain and minimise the spread of Covid-19.
Levi Yant has sent us a new piece which is up to date as of Monday 16th. Although much of our previous article remains relevant, the situation has moved on.
This is an opinion piece and we feel that it is up to everyone to make their own decisions in this extremely worrying time.
Following recent advice from the UK government and health officials that the public should be practising social distancing, the continued use of climbing walls as a leisure facility is increasingly putting lives at risk, argues Levi Yant, M.Sc. (Virology), PhD (Genetics) Associate Professor of Evolutionary Genomics at the University of Nottingham’s Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences.
Should you go to the wall if you’re healthy during the Covid-19 pandemic? NOT A CHANCE.
This is going to hurt. But listen. And I’m not happy about it: I’m a devoted climber and supporter of climbing businesses and organisations. I’m also a professor with a postgraduate degree in virology and I spent over a decade working and publishing in the field of viral epidemiology and vaccine development. From this perspective, the answer is deadly clear: you are putting lives at risk if you climb at the wall at this point in the Covid-19 pandemic.
Sounds alarmist, right? Well, it’s time to ring the alarm, and ring it loud.
The situation has been fast-moving, so it’s fair that public awareness is only catching up. But epidemiologists have been raising alarms for weeks. And related to climbing, there’s new evidence that Covid-19 virus particles are infective for days on plastic surfaces from the US National Institutes of Health and Princeton University. This study also shows that infective Covid-19 virus can passed in aerosols (i.e., by a cough/sneeze/power scream). So, forget about unclean holds; this work shows that airborne transmission is likely. Hence the all the facemasks in countries that this has already hit. To the broader scientific community, current UK government advice of washing your hands and not touching your face is not sufficient. The outcome is the stuff of horror stories, and cases are increasing steadily (doubling in number every 3-4 days). Slow action by any particular government does not excuse lack of personal responsibility in the face of a medical crisis unprecedented in our lifetimes.
Sure, we can make our own decisions regarding our personal health, but we damn well better think of our families and the public, too. Climbers are generally healthy and are therefore perfect carriers of this highly contagious and deadly disease. So, no, this one isn’t even about us. It’s relatively healthy carriers – because they remain active and mobile – who pose the greatest danger to others, by spreading viruses like Covid-19. This danger is magnified in Covid-19 because the virus is so transmissible both early on, before symptoms, as well as following any (even minor) symptoms.
Tragically, if you don’t see it now, it will become clearer – and soon. In fact, a week ago I wasn’t alarmed, despite my longstanding interest in viral epidemiology. I would have said, yeah, of course, go the wall. But the spread of Covid-19 has progressed exponentially (doubling in number every 3-4 days, with each doubling bigger than the previous) since then. And exponential growth is not something we evolved to understand. Like distances between stars, exponential growth doesn’t hit the limbic system like the vision of a lion running right at you. But that’s what Covid-19 is doing, right now. This has been conveniently previewed for the UK in Italy, where Covid-19 hit a couple weeks earlier. Right now, the UK Covid-19 increase in case rates are increasing at the same rate, but only two weeks behind Italy’s. Italy has instituted much stronger restrictions than the UK government is (yet) instituting, and they are still experiencing rises in cases, which means many unnecessary deaths. Without dramatic action (total shutdown), all estimates are that it will be worse here.
And yes, you should be scared: A brand new modelling study by a leading group at Harvard shows that even using the most conservative assumptions, the current 4,100 ICU beds in the UK will *not come remotely close* to accommodating the upcoming sick and dying here. Worse, ¾ of those beds are occupied with ICU cases now. It’s highly doubtful that the UK can ramp up ventilator production fast enough, and even if it does, do you want to contribute negatively to this? Just to pull on some plastic? Climb outside, for God’s sake! Or anywhere there are fewer people around to reduce the likelihood of virus transmission. We need to slow this thing down! I know this isn’t convenient, or even doable for some of us, but given the consequences it’s way more responsible to take a step back from anywhere the virus is more likely to be.
So what can you do? Reduce exposure to crowds now, as well as you can. Climb outside. Go somewhere beautiful and remote. Whatever you do, flatten the curve of new infections, and for those of us who find it difficult or impossible to isolate due to work or family obligations, check out this cool description of how every little bit of social reduction helps. I implore you all, if you don’t believe me, to put off your wall visit by a few days and it will be increasingly clear that it’s the right thing to do by the spread of this pandemic. By all reasonable projections Covid-19 will kill many, many more people in the UK if unchecked, including people you know and love – as well as members of your local wall. I don’t want to have to tell you this, but I must. Take care of yourself, your loved ones and our society: don’t congregate in climbing walls, or anywhere. Do you part to help slow the peak of infections down.
Best wishes, everyone, and take care.
Levi Yant, M.Sc. (Virology), PhD (Genetics)
Associate Professor of Evolutionary Genomics
Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences
University of Nottingham
Sport climbing makes its Olympic debut, with athletes winning gold thanks to the power and strength in their fingertips.
Sport climbing takes the challenge of scaling steep ascents to a whole new level. Climbers use brightly-coloured hand, finger and foot holds, their climbing skills and all the strength their bodies can muster to work their way up a near-vertical wall.
The sport will make its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 and will feature three disciplines: Speed, Bouldering and Lead. Speed climbing pits two climbers against each other, both climbing a fixed route on a 15-metre wall. In Bouldering, climbers scale a number of fixed routes on a 4m wall in a specified time. In Lead, athletes attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall measuring over 15m in height within a fixed time. At the Games, each climber will compete in all three disciplines, and the final rankings will be determined by multiplying the placement in each discipline, with the athletes with the lowest scores winning medals.
In some disciplines, climbers attach safety ropes; however, no other equipment is permitted and competitors must climb using only their bare hands and climbing shoes. The sport requires strength, flexibility and skill together with careful advance planning: the first ever medallists will all possess this unique combination of physical and mental capability and decisiveness.
Inernational Federation:International Federation of Sport Climbing
- Bouldering, Lead & Speed Combined (Men/Women)
Three disciplines, one goal
A variety of techniques are required for success in sport climbing:
Two climbers secure safety ropes to themselves and attempt to scale a 15m-high wall, set at an angle of 95 degrees, faster than their opponent. Winning times for men’s events tend to be around the five- to six-second mark, while women’s events are usually won in around seven or eight seconds. A false start results in instant disqualification.
In Bouldering, climbers scale as many fixed routes on a 4m-high wall as they can within four minutes. The routes vary in difficulty and climbers are not permitted to practise climbing them in advance. When a climber grabs the final hold at the top of a route with both hands, they are deemed to have completed it. Climbers tackle the wall without safety ropes and can try a route again if they fall during their initial attempt.
The walls used for bouldering present a range of challenges, with overhangs and holds so small that they can only be held by the fingertips. Climbers must plan each move carefully, thinking about which hand and which foot to place in the next holds, while constantly being aware of the time limit. The physical and mental dexterity required for success is extraordinary.
Lead involves athletes attempting to climb as high as they can on a wall measuring more than 15m in height within six minutes. The climbers use safety ropes and attach the rope to quickdraws (equipment that allows the rope to run freely while leading) along the route. When a climber attaches their rope to the top quickdraw, they have completed the climb. If a climber falls, the height attained is recorded. There are no re-climbs.
If two or more athletes complete the climb or reach exactly the same height, the fastest to do so is declared the winner. This is a demanding whole-body activity and dynamic climbing techniques are to the fore.
To prevent athletes gaining an advantage from watching others scaling the bouldering and lead climbing walls before them, each climber is kept away from the climb site before their turn and given just a few minutes to examine the wall and the routes prior to starting.
CONFIRMED QUALIFIED ATHLETES
As of 07/02/2020
|1||Tomoa NARASAKI||Japan||Janja GARNBRET||Slovenia|
|2||Jakob SCHUBERT||Austria||Akiyo NOGUCHI||Japan|
|3||Rishat KHAIBULLIN||Kazakhstan||Shauna COXSEY||Great Britain|
|4||Kai HARADA||Japan||Aleksandra MIROSLAW||Poland|
|5||Mickael MAWEM||France||Miho NONAKA||Japan|
|6||Alexander MEGOS||Germany||Petra KLINGLER||Switzerland|
|7||Ludovico FOSSALI||Italy||Brooke RABOUTOU||USA|
|8||Sean MCCOLL||Canada||Jessica PILZ||Austria|
|9||Adam ONDRA||Czech Republic||Julia CHANOURDIE||France|
|10||Bassa MAWEM||France||Mia KRAMPL||Slovenia|
|11||Jan HOJER||Germany||Iuliia KAPLINA||Russia|
|12||YuFei PAN||China||Kyra CONDIE||USA|
|13||Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ||Spain||Laura ROGORA||Italy|
|14||Nathaniel COLEMAN||USA||YiLing SONG||China|
Photo Credits: Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
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