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Bouldering, Community, Competitions, Lead Climbing, News, Rope Climbing, Travelling, Uncategorized

Updates – Covid19- Climbing Walls 2021

June 17, 2020by Alan Golder0 comments

When could gyms reopen?

The Government has not yet published its lockdown exit strategy. Boris Johnsonhas said he will set out the strategy for the “gradual and phased” easing of lockdown in the week beginning 22 February.

In an address to MPs on Wednesday 27 January, the Prime Minister indicated that lockdown measures will remain in place until at least Monday 8 March.

This means it is safe to assume that gyms will not reopen until at least 8 March, but likely later.

The date is based on progress in vaccinating the most vulnerable groups in society by mid-February and then giving the jab time to take effect.

How did gyms work under the tier system?

The Government has indicated that England will re-enter a tiered system of restrictions when nationwide measures ease.

Speaking about easing out of lockdown, Dominic Raab told the BBC: “I think it is fair to say it won’t be a big bang, if you like, it will be done phased, possibly back through the tiered approach that we had before.”

Gyms were allowed to stay open in all tiers under the three-tier system that was in place in December.

However, they were closed in tier four areas when the additional level was brought in later in the month.

When gyms reopen they will once again have to follow strict rules, such as reduced class sizes and one-way systems.

 

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Uncategorized

Climbing Wall use during the COVID-19 Pandemic – It’s Time to Reconsider

March 19, 2020by Alan Golder0 comments

UKC News:

 

Last week we published an article The Climbing Bug – Indoor Walls and Coronavirus which had advice and information about how to deal with the current coronavirus pandemic. The thread accompanying the piece had a lengthy contribution from Levi Yant, who raised some serious concerns about it in the context of this fast-moving situation.

We contacted a few climbing wall owners to see what their thoughts were. They described measures they were taking to reduce the dangers and also other more drastic steps they might make, such as limiting user numbers, but all also agreed that the situation may soon be taken out of their control. We also contacted Dave Turnbull of the BMC and he said they were leaving it to the individual walls to decide for themselves. The Climbing Academy announced today that all of their centres will close from tomorrow (17 March).

Today – Monday (16 March) – the press conference by the prime minister has advised people to avoid public gathering places like pubs, restaurants, and cafes. No specific mention of leisure facilities was made. Numerous climbing walls across the globe – and some crags in Spain – have closed over the past week, either due to government orders or out of a personal desire to contain and minimise the spread of Covid-19.

Levi Yant has sent us a new piece which is up to date as of Monday 16th. Although much of our previous article remains relevant, the situation has moved on.

This is an opinion piece and we feel that it is up to everyone to make their own decisions in this extremely worrying time.

Alan James

Following recent advice from the UK government and health officials that the public should be practising social distancing, the continued use of climbing walls as a leisure facility is increasingly putting lives at risk, argues Levi Yant, M.Sc. (Virology), PhD (Genetics) Associate Professor of Evolutionary Genomics at the University of Nottingham’s Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences.


Should you go to the wall if you’re healthy during the Covid-19 pandemic? NOT A CHANCE.

This is going to hurt. But listen. And I’m not happy about it: I’m a devoted climber and supporter of climbing businesses and organisations. I’m also a professor with a postgraduate degree in virology and I spent over a decade working and publishing in the field of viral epidemiology and vaccine development. From this perspective, the answer is deadly clear: you are putting lives at risk if you climb at the wall at this point in the Covid-19 pandemic.

Sounds alarmist, right? Well, it’s time to ring the alarm, and ring it loud.

The situation has been fast-moving, so it’s fair that public awareness is only catching up. But epidemiologists have been raising alarms for weeks. And related to climbing, there’s new evidence that Covid-19 virus particles are infective for days on plastic surfaces from the US National Institutes of Health and Princeton University. This study also shows that infective Covid-19 virus can passed in aerosols (i.e., by a cough/sneeze/power scream). So, forget about unclean holds; this work shows that airborne transmission is likely. Hence the all the facemasks in countries that this has already hit. To the broader scientific community, current UK government advice of washing your hands and not touching your face is not sufficient. The outcome is the stuff of horror stories, and cases are increasing steadily (doubling in number every 3-4 days). Slow action by any particular government does not excuse lack of personal responsibility in the face of a medical crisis unprecedented in our lifetimes.

Sure, we can make our own decisions regarding our personal health, but we damn well better think of our families and the public, too. Climbers are generally healthy and are therefore perfect carriers of this highly contagious and deadly disease. So, no, this one isn’t even about us. It’s relatively healthy carriers – because they remain active and mobile – who pose the greatest danger to others, by spreading viruses like Covid-19. This danger is magnified in Covid-19 because the virus is so transmissible both early on, before symptoms, as well as following any (even minor) symptoms.

Tragically, if you don’t see it now, it will become clearer – and soon. In fact, a week ago I wasn’t alarmed, despite my longstanding interest in viral epidemiology. I would have said, yeah, of course, go the wall. But the spread of Covid-19 has progressed exponentially (doubling in number every 3-4 days, with each doubling bigger than the previous) since then. And exponential growth is not something we evolved to understand. Like distances between stars, exponential growth doesn’t hit the limbic system like the vision of a lion running right at you. But that’s what Covid-19 is doing, right now. This has been conveniently previewed for the UK in Italy, where Covid-19 hit a couple weeks earlier. Right now, the UK Covid-19 increase in case rates are increasing at the same rate, but only two weeks behind Italy’s. Italy has instituted much stronger restrictions than the UK government is (yet) instituting, and they are still experiencing rises in cases, which means many unnecessary deaths. Without dramatic action (total shutdown), all estimates are that it will be worse here.

And yes, you should be scared: A brand new modelling study by a leading group at Harvard shows that even using the most conservative assumptions, the current 4,100 ICU beds in the UK will *not come remotely close* to accommodating the upcoming sick and dying here. Worse, ¾ of those beds are occupied with ICU cases now. It’s highly doubtful that the UK can ramp up ventilator production fast enough, and even if it does, do you want to contribute negatively to this? Just to pull on some plastic? Climb outside, for God’s sake! Or anywhere there are fewer people around to reduce the likelihood of virus transmission. We need to slow this thing down! I know this isn’t convenient, or even doable for some of us, but given the consequences it’s way more responsible to take a step back from anywhere the virus is more likely to be.

So what can you do? Reduce exposure to crowds now, as well as you can. Climb outside. Go somewhere beautiful and remote. Whatever you do, flatten the curve of new infections, and for those of us who find it difficult or impossible to isolate due to work or family obligations, check out this cool description of how every little bit of social reduction helps. I implore you all, if you don’t believe me, to put off your wall visit by a few days and it will be increasingly clear that it’s the right thing to do by the spread of this pandemic. By all reasonable projections Covid-19 will kill many, many more people in the UK if unchecked, including people you know and love – as well as members of your local wall. I don’t want to have to tell you this, but I must. Take care of yourself, your loved ones and our society: don’t congregate in climbing walls, or anywhere. Do you part to help slow the peak of infections down.

Best wishes, everyone, and take care.

Levi Yant, M.Sc. (Virology), PhD (Genetics)

Associate Professor of Evolutionary Genomics
Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences
University of Nottingham

original link https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/03/climbing_wall_use_during_the_covid-19_pandemic_-_its_time_to_reconsider-72236

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Bouldering

Hangar Masters 2020 with Adam Ondra

February 18, 2020by Alan Golder0 comments

There is a huge event going to happen 15th February in HANGAR! The elite European climbers are coming to compare their ONSIGHT climbing skills with each other! We are looking forward to welcome Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer, Alberto Gines Lopez, Rishat Khaibullin, Gregor Vezonik, Lučka Rakovec, Mia Krampl, Katja Kadić, Julia Kruder! However, not only them! We will also cheer up for Czech and Slovak top-climbers such as Martin Stráník, Jakub Konečný, Vojtěch Trojan, Eliška Adamovská, Vanda Michalkova, and Michaela Smetanová!

 

credits BTV

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News

IFSC Combiné (Français) – IFSC Combined disaplines explained (subtitles)

February 18, 2020by Alan Golder0 comments

All credits: IFSC YouTube

About IFSC: The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world. About the Channel:  The IFSC Channel – On this channel, you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing! World up…Keep climbing!

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Bouldering

IFSC Climbing World Cup Vail 2019 – Bouldering Finals

February 18, 2020by Alan Golder0 comments

 

 

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Featured Image
Uncategorized

Climbing in the Olympic Games

November 19, 2019by admin210 comments

Sport climbing makes its Olympic debut, with athletes winning gold thanks to the power and strength in their fingertips.

Overview

Sport climbing takes the challenge of scaling steep ascents to a whole new level. Climbers use brightly-coloured hand, finger and foot holds, their climbing skills and all the strength their bodies can muster to work their way up a near-vertical wall.

The sport will make its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 and will feature three disciplines: Speed, Bouldering and Lead. Speed climbing pits two climbers against each other, both climbing a fixed route on a 15-metre wall. In Bouldering, climbers scale a number of fixed routes on a 4m wall in a specified time. In Lead, athletes attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall measuring over 15m in height within a fixed time. At the Games, each climber will compete in all three disciplines, and the final rankings will be determined by multiplying the placement in each discipline, with the athletes with the lowest scores winning medals.

In some disciplines, climbers attach safety ropes; however, no other equipment is permitted and competitors must climb using only their bare hands and climbing shoes. The sport requires strength, flexibility and skill together with careful advance planning: the first ever medallists will all possess this unique combination of physical and mental capability and decisiveness.

Inernational Federation:International Federation of Sport Climbing(Open in a new window)

Event Programme

  • Bouldering, Lead & Speed Combined (Men/Women)

Three disciplines, one goal

A variety of techniques are required for success in sport climbing:

• Speed
Two climbers secure safety ropes to themselves and attempt to scale a 15m-high wall, set at an angle of 95 degrees, faster than their opponent. Winning times for men’s events tend to be around the five- to six-second mark, while women’s events are usually won in around seven or eight seconds. A false start results in instant disqualification.

• Bouldering
In Bouldering, climbers scale as many fixed routes on a 4m-high wall as they can within four minutes. The routes vary in difficulty and climbers are not permitted to practise climbing them in advance. When a climber grabs the final hold at the top of a route with both hands, they are deemed to have completed it. Climbers tackle the wall without safety ropes and can try a route again if they fall during their initial attempt.

The walls used for bouldering present a range of challenges, with overhangs and holds so small that they can only be held by the fingertips. Climbers must plan each move carefully, thinking about which hand and which foot to place in the next holds, while constantly being aware of the time limit. The physical and mental dexterity required for success is extraordinary.

• Lead
Lead involves athletes attempting to climb as high as they can on a wall measuring more than 15m in height within six minutes. The climbers use safety ropes and attach the rope to quickdraws (equipment that allows the rope to run freely while leading) along the route. When a climber attaches their rope to the top quickdraw, they have completed the climb. If a climber falls, the height attained is recorded. There are no re-climbs.

If two or more athletes complete the climb or reach exactly the same height, the fastest to do so is declared the winner. This is a demanding whole-body activity and dynamic climbing techniques are to the fore.

To prevent athletes gaining an advantage from watching others scaling the bouldering and lead climbing walls before them, each climber is kept away from the climb site before their turn and given just a few minutes to examine the wall and the routes prior to starting.

CONFIRMED QUALIFIED ATHLETES

As of  07/02/2020

Male Country Female Country
1 Tomoa NARASAKI Japan Janja GARNBRET Slovenia
2 Jakob SCHUBERT Austria Akiyo NOGUCHI Japan
3 Rishat KHAIBULLIN Kazakhstan Shauna COXSEY Great Britain
4 Kai HARADA Japan Aleksandra MIROSLAW Poland
5 Mickael MAWEM France Miho NONAKA Japan
6 Alexander MEGOS Germany Petra KLINGLER Switzerland
7 Ludovico FOSSALI Italy Brooke RABOUTOU USA
8 Sean MCCOLL Canada Jessica PILZ Austria
9 Adam ONDRA Czech Republic Julia CHANOURDIE France
10 Bassa MAWEM France Mia KRAMPL Slovenia
11 Jan HOJER Germany Iuliia KAPLINA Russia
12 YuFei PAN China Kyra CONDIE USA
13 Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ Spain Laura ROGORA Italy
14 Nathaniel COLEMAN USA YiLing SONG China
15 – – – –
16 – – – –
17 – – – –
18 – – – –
19 – – – –
20

 

Credits: https://tokyo2020.org/en/games/sport/olympic/sport-climbing/

Credits: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/olympic-games

Photo Credits: Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games

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Bouldering, Community, Competitions, News

BLOKFEST 2019 – 2020

October 3, 2019by admin210 comments

We are back for 2019-2020

BLOKFEST 2019 – 2020

We are very proud to announce the Season 8 dates.

This year we take a break from the legends at Boulder Brighton and head over to a BRAND NEW centre in Bristol – FlashPoint!

It’s so exciting as at the time of writing the wall is still in the early days of construction. The four other venues remain as legendary as ever and we cannot wait to have a massive season kick-off at the epic Harrowall, before going big and shiny in Bristol. Then, after Christmas, we move onto the party peoples favourite Yonder before finishing up with the classics tour – Mile End and Castle.

We have many exciting plans for this coming season and if season 7 was our best yet just wait for season 8.

Tickets will go on sale via Eventbrite in early October.

Keep in the loop for more news as it comes up.

Cheers
Team Blokfest

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Bouldering, News

WIN A YEARS SPONSORSHIP

January 14, 2019by admin210 comments

You are invited to The League.
Three Rounds, followed by a Semi Finals and Finals showcase event.
If you’ve ever watched finals and wondered what it’s like to be up there – now is your chance.

The 1st place winners in both Male and Female categories will win FULL CLIMBING SPONSORSHIP. Evolv shoe, Prana clothing and Metolius chalk sponsorship. The winning climbers will also receive full sponsorship across all our sites, VauxWall, HarroWall, CroyWall and RavensWall. (As such, sponsored athletes and national athletes are excluded from submitting their scores.) Everyone is welcome to try the climbs, however, only un-sponsored climbers are able to compete.

Your £5 online Vertical Life score card over between rounds.

The first day of each round will be kicked off with a launch-style event. The first 100 people attending Round 1 at CroyWall will get The League limited edition t-shirt.
Each round will consist of a set of climbs that will stay up in the centre for 3 weeks.
1 point per climb – take as many attempts as you like/can!

See below for round details:

*Round 1*: CroyWall 4th Feb – 25th Feb
*Round 2*: VauxEast 5th March – 26th March
*Round 3*: RavensWall 5th April – 26th April
*Semi Finals & Finals*: HarroWall 11th May

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Uncategorized

Specialist Store

January 8, 2019by admin210 comments

We have decided to have a different store than most of the other climbing websites. We are looking for bespoke companies such as SILLY GOAT, who make undoubtably the best custom brushes that we have ever seen.

So if you would like to sell your products please contact us at info@theclimbingdirectory.co.uk

Coming Soon!!!!

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Bouldering, News

Bouldering in Olympics 2020!

July 12, 2018by admin210 comments

Get practicing because Bouldering is coming to the Olympics 2020!

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